
Blaine Harden/Washington Post
A man wearing traditional mourning garb joins crowds of angry and grieving South Koreans beside the burned ruins of Namdaemun, a 610-year-old wooden structure that was South Korea’s No. 1 national treasure.
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SEOUL, South Korea -- To appreciate the fury that has gripped
South Korea since Sunday, imagine this:
The Alamo (or Independence Hall or the Old North Church) is set
afire. There is live prime-time coverage on national television.
Firefighters rush to the scene but dither for more than an hour
before spraying any water. As the irreplaceable goes up in smoke,
firemen argue jurisdictional niceties with government
preservationists.
Police nab the perpetrator before the ashes are cold. He is a
69-year-old man with a criminal record for arson. He admits setting
the fire, telling police that the landmark was "easy to approach
and poorly guarded."
That scenario happened here this week. But the torched structure
was a massive 610-year-old wooden gate that was part of the
fortress walls that once protected Seoul. Known as Namdaemun,
"Great Southern Gate," it was the country's single most important
historical treasure.
"The soul of Korea burned overnight," said an editorial in
JoonAng Daily, a Seoul newspaper.
Namdaemun was officially proclaimed "National Treasure No. 1" in
1962. It was the oldest wooden structure in Seoul, having served as
the city's ceremonial entrance since 1398. It survived Japanese
occupation. It survived the Korean War. Here in the world's most
wired society, it survived South Korea's obsession with all things
new--until Sunday evening.
That's when Chae Jong-gi, a former fortune teller who was angry
at the government over how much it had paid him for the loss of his
house to a development project, showed up at Namdaemun.
He wore mountain-climbing clothes, he later told police, and he
carried three bottles of paint thinner and two lighters. Two years
earlier, he had been convicted of setting a small fire at another
ancient Seoul landmark, Changgyeong Palace. He was then given a
suspended sentence, owing to his age and his earnest apology at
trial.
After his arrest on Monday, Chae again apologized earnestly.
"No words are enough to express my apologies to my children and
the people," he said.
Now that Namdaemun is rubble, many people are apologizing.
The mayor of Seoul has apologized. The head of the Cultural
Heritage Administration, the agency responsible for the care of the
ancient gate, has apologized and resigned--although he admitted no
specific wrongdoing.
There is also abundant finger-pointing. City administrators
contend the fire department hesitated before chopping open the roof
of Namdaemun to fight the fire. They waited for direction from the
Cultural Heritage Administration, according to a report released
Monday. In the meantime, a small fire swelled into a conflagration.
Government preservationists have since insisted they never told the
firemen to hesitate and the firemen said they did not wait around
for direction.
Among South Koreans who watched the landmark burn on TV in real
time there is disbelief and deep sadness. One television
commentator compared the experience to watching hijacked airliners
fly into the Twin Towers in New York.
Since Sunday night, mourners have been coming to the grounds
around the gate, bearing gifts of flowers, apples, pears,
persimmons, coffee beans, dried pollock, clams, bottles of a Korean
liquor called soju and, for reasons unknown, a single grilled
cheese sandwich. These were offerings to ancestors for the
collective failings of the Korean government to protect the
gate.
"I am so upset, I cannot eat," said Kim Jung-ja, 65, who stood
on Wednesday with a crowd of mourners near the ruined gate. She had
come by bus from a distant suburb of Seoul to pay her respects.
On Wednesday, a number of letters were pinned to the
offerings.
"It must have been very hot while you were burning," said one
that was written in a child's hand and addressed to Namdaemun. "How
could we have burned you down? It is too much."
Another letter to the landmark, in an adult's hand, said, "We
seek your forgiveness for failure to protect you. We have made the
biggest mistake that cannot be undone."
The government, though, says it will rebuild Namdaemun, using a
recently completed and highly detailed blueprint, as well as
records from a previous restoration of the gate. Officials predict
it will take two to three years and cost about $21 million.
Special correspondent Stella Kim contributed to this
report.
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